GUIDELINES FOR SHORT STAND CONCRETE PEDESTALS

The Drawing SS524 shows one concrete pedestal. This is for simplicity. The pedestal could be in two blocks and the back block would have stair-steps of the contractor's design. If the Short Stand that you have ordered has one of the handrail configurations that the factory offers, you will note that a side-mount pedestal is only possible with the "Short Stand, handrails one side" option (#70-231-525). However, the contractor who builds a pedestal for the "Short Stand, no handrails" option (#70-231-524) could incorporate his own custom handrails design for the pedestal and design the stair-steps either at the back or on the sides.
For pools with existing decks, the block(s) should be tied to the existing deck by the use of steel "T-irons" inserted into the existing deck, before the concrete is poured. The expected lift-load generated by a diver on the diving board is approximately 3000 lbs. The contractor must also consider the weight-bearing capacity of the deck and whether or not the deck has a pump room underneath where the concrete pedestals will be constructed.
The Drawing also shows the pedestal being relatively square, with no consideration for aesthetics. The sides could be tapered or curved to enhance the appearance. They could also be covered with ceramic tile to match surroundings. (See attached sheet "Suggestions for Use of Paper Layout" for limitations on curved or sloping surfaces, and for flush installation of bronze anchors in concrete or tile surfaces.)
The top surface of the pedestal should be very flat in the area where the hardware will be mounted. At the same time, there should be some provision for drainage so that there is no standing water around or under the fulcrum unit or anchor unit which will cause corrosion of the Short Stand.
The bronze anchors outlined in the Drawing, to be embedded in the concrete, are approximately 4 1/2" high, 4" wide at the base, and they accept at 5/8" diameter national coarse American bolt. Six bronze anchors are required for installation of the Short Stand.
SUGGESTIONS FOR USE OF PAPER LAYOUT FOR INSTALLATION OF BRONZE ANCHORS IN CONCRETE BASES FOR SHORT STAND ANCHOR & FULCRUM
The layout shows the location of the 6 anchor points relative to the edge of the pool. Note that if the edge of the pool and the edge of the platform or pedestal are the same, then you must reconsider the overhang of the board over the pool. The overhang must increase so that the board does not hit the edge of the platform, but the diving well depth and distance out must still meet the FINA standard for diver safety, given the increased overhang of the board.
The 6 attach points for the fulcrum unit and the anchor unit must be on the same level plane.
From this layout, we suggest you make plywood templates (1/2" or 3/4" thick plywood). Drill 5/8" diameter holes for the 6 attach points, bolt the 6 bronze castings under the plywood sheet using the 6 one inch steel bolts. The sheets can be used to locate the positions on the paper template, and tops of the bronze anchors can be leveled where they are located.
The concrete or tile must be finished flush with the top of each bronze anchor. There must be an area, at least 6" in diameter around the top of each bronze anchor which is flat and on a level plane with the other anchors. Any slope for drainage can occur from the edge of the 6" diameter flat areas.
The bronze anchors must not protrude above the level of the base, nor may they be covered.
Summarizing: for a correct installation, the concrete pedestal or platform must have 6 points on a level plane, with a flat surface around each bronze anchor, with the concrete or tile finished exactly flush with the top of the bronze anchors.
DURAFIRM STAND INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS
PREPARATION:
It is possible that you can install this Stand without reading the instructions. However, they were written after many installations and five minutes of your time may save you several hours of labor. Uncrate the stand carefully. The small cartons contain bolts, shims, etc.
TOOLS: The following is a list of tools to have available.
- Disc-Sander
- Large Screwdriver
- Machinist's Level (Precision Level)
- 15/16" Socket Wrench with 18" handle
- 15/16" Box Wrench
- 9/16" Socket Wrench
- 1/2" Socket Wrench
- 5/8"- 11 (NC) Tap
- Plumb-Bob
- Tube Cutter, for 1 1/2"" O.D. Tubing (if Stand has handrails)
If the Stand is to be installed on an existing deck with Thru-Rods, have available:
- Center Punch
- Carbide Drill (1/4" or a very small "Star" Drill)
- Rotary Hammer
- 3/4" Dia. Carbide-tipped Drill used in Rotary Hammer (for Thru-Rods)
HELPFUL ACCESSORIES:
- Straight-Edge, about 30"
- Lacquer Thinner and rags for clean up
SHIMS: At least one Shim 1/8" thick should be placed between the mounting surface of the deck and the Stand, to reduce paint blistering and corrosion of the Stand material (Cast Aluminum).
Never use Shims between the Board and the Hinge.
SITE PREPARATION:
FOR NEW DECKS WITH CAST-IN ANCHORS
Check deck surface at each attachment point. There should be a flat smooth area approximately six inches in diameter around each fitting. If the casting protrudes, it must be ground flush with the concrete or tile surface. All anchor points for the main support (or fulcrum) should be on a flat, level plane as well as all anchor points for the ladder (or anchor). Drive corks down through the threaded hole (this will not interfere with the installation bolts) and run through each hole with a tap to clean all threads.
FOR EXISTING DECKS
In the fulcrum roller you will find a roll of paper. This is the layout for the deck holes. First mark a centerline on the deck (preferably lining up to a spot on the opposite end of the pool). Lay out the paper template on the pool deck lining up the edge marked "Edge of Pool" with the edge of the pool or coping. The template centerline is marked. The marks indicate the location of holes to attach the stand to the deck. Use a center-punch to transfer the hole pattern to the concrete. Double-check the layout on the concrete before drilling, by placing both the main support and the ladder in place to "eye ball" the hole location. After removing the paper, drill a small pilot hole exactly on these centers, using a 1/4" carbide-tipped drill.
Where Thru-Rods are used, drill a 3/4" hole for each 5/8" diameter rod.
SHORT STAND ANCHOR & FULCRUM INSTALLATION
If your Short Stand has handrails, first see the instruction sheet for rails, and install the handrail support arms on the fulcrum unit.
Under each contact point of the fulcrum unit, place one 3/16" round shim (color of this shim is brown, made of phenolic resin; six are provided).
Place the fulcrum unit in place and use a precision level across the tracks. Make sure the box does not contact the concrete. Add shims if necessary to get the unit level. Install the 5/8" x 2 1/2" bronze hex hd bolts and stainless steel washers, and tighten to 110 ft lbs of torque or maximum pull on 18" handle of socket wrench. Check again for level.
Install the anchor/hinged unit with one 3/16" round shim under each contact point, as above; but leave the bolts finger-tight at this step of the installation.
Install the diving board.
Check the anchor end of the board; be sure it is parallel with the center line of the hinges. Tighten the board bolts thoroughly (at least 110 ft lbs of torque).
Check the board for being centered on the fulcrum, and shift the entire casting if necessary.
Place the precision level on top of the board just forward of the anchor angle. Shim between the concrete and the anchor casting if necessary. Tighten the three hex hd stainless steel bolts thoroughly.
Note: Never use shims between the board and hinge, to level the board.
If your Short Stand has rails, refer now to the Rail Installation Instructions.
Use the polyurethane touch-up paint to coat nuts, bolt heads and bolt threads and to cover any nicks into the finish of the stand so that corrosion does not occur and perhaps cause failure of the coating or fasteners to support structures and subsequent shortened life of the stand. |