SUGGESTIONS FOR USE OF PAPER LAYOUT FOR
INSTALLATION OF BRONZE ANCHORS IN CONCRETE DECK FOR
DURAFIRM ONE AND THREE METER STANDS

We ship with the bronze anchors a full-scale paper layout for the 8 anchor points, relative to the edge of the pool.

The four deck attach points for the fulcrum/main support, and the four ladder assembly attach points must each be on a level plane. These need not be a common plane; a difference of 2" is permissible.

From the paper layout, mark a 1/2" or 3/4" plywood sheet, and drill 5/8" holes at the anchor points; this will be your placement "jig". Bolt the bronze anchors to the bottom side of the plywood, with the 5/8" x 1" steel bolts. The bottom of each bronze anchor has a 1/2" x 5" steel bolt installed for the purpose of doing a primary locating of the anchors before the deck concrete is poured.

Locate your placement jig where the stand is to be installed. Mark where each anchor will be, then set your anchor jig aside. Excavate a pit where each anchor will be; excavate about 7" deeper than the surrounding ground, and a pit diameter of at least 10". Into each of the 8 "pits" put a bucket-full of wet concrete. Immediately reposition the anchor jig; finalize their location and level the tops of the bronze anchors using the plywood. Remember the bottom plane of the plywood is to be the height of the deck concrete to be poured.

When the concrete has hardened the pre-set anchors into position, remove the plywood. Put the corks (provided) into the 5/8" hole in the top of each anchor, so that when the deck concrete is poured, it can be worked flush over the tops of the anchors without damaging the bolt hole threads or filling up the hollow space in the bronze anchor.

Pour the concrete deck:

We recommend that the concrete deck be 7" to 10" deep close to each anchor and have reinforcing steel in two directions close to each anchor. Concrete may be only 5" deep in areas that are more than 10" to 15" away from each bronze anchor.

The deck must be finished flush with the top of each anchor, and there must be an area at least 12" in diameter around the top of each anchor which is flat and on a level plane. All deck slope for drainage may occur from the edge of the 12" diameter flat area.

The bronze anchors must not protrude above the level of the deck, nor may they be covered.

DURAFIRM STAND INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

PREPARATION:

It is possible that you can install this Stand without reading the instructions. However, they were written after many installations and five minutes of your time may save you several hours of labor. Uncrate the stand carefully.  The small cartons contain bolts, shims, etc.

TOOLS:The following is a list of tools to have available.

• Disc-Sander
• Large Screwdriver
• Machinist's Level (Precision Level)
• 15/16" Socket Wrench with 18" handle
• 15/16" Box Wrench
• 9/16" Socket Wrench
• 1/2" Socket Wrench
• 5/8"- 11 (NC) Tap
• Plumb-Bob
• Tube Cutter, for 1 1/2" O.D. Tubing (if Stand has guard rails)

If the Stand is to be installed on an existing deck with Concrete Inserts or Thru-Rods, have available:

• Center Punch
• Carbide Drill (1/4" or a very small "Star" Drill)
• Rotary Hammer
• 3/4" Dia. Carbide-tipped Drill used in Rotary Hammer (for Thru-Rods)
• 7/8" Dia. Carbide-tipped Drill used in Rotary Hammer (for Inserts)
• Punch with a maximum 1/2" Diameter (for Inserts)

HELPFUL ACCESSORIES:

• Straight-Edge, about 30"
• Lacquer Thinner and rags for clean up

SHIMS: At least one Shim 1/8" thick should be placed between the mounting surface of the deck and the Stand, to reduce paint blistering and corrosion of the Stand material (Cast Aluminum).

Never use Shims between the Board and the Hinge.

SITE PREPARATION:

FOR NEW DECKS WITH CAST-IN ANCHORS

Check deck surface at each attachment point. There should be a flat smooth area approximately six inches in diameter around each fitting. If the casting protrudes, it must be ground flush with the concrete or tile surface. All anchor points for the main support (or fulcrum) should be on a flat, level plane as well as all anchor points for the ladder (or anchor). Drive corks down through the threaded hole (this will not interfere with the installation bolts) and run through each hole with a tap to clean all threads.

FOR EXISTING DECKS

In the fulcrum roller you will find a roll of paper. This is the layout for the deck holes. First mark a centerline on the deck (preferably lining up to a spot on the opposite end of the pool). Lay out the paper template on the pool deck lining up the edge marked "Edge of Pool" with the edge of the pool or coping. The template centerline is marked. The marks indicate the location of holes to attach the stand to the deck. Use a center-punch to transfer the hole pattern to the concrete. Double-check the layout on the concrete before drilling, by placing both the main support and the ladder in place to "eye ball" the hole location. After removing the paper, drill a small pilot hole exactly on these centers, using a1/4" carbide-tipped drill.

Where Thru-Rods are used, drill a 3/4" hole for each 5/8" diameter rod.

When using Hilti threaded inserts follow the instructions provided with your installation kit.

The ladder bolt holes are most critical, since they carry "uploads" of approximately 3000 lbs.

The top of the inserts should be approximately 1/4" below the surface of the deck. In final tightening, all cap screws in the ladder should withstand a maximum pull on a wrench handle 18" long, or approximately 110 ft.-lbs. of torque load. If a single bolt will not carry this torque load, the ladder assembly will eventually work loose.

INSTALLATION
STAND AND LADDER

1. Install the rail support arms on the fulcrum unit, matching coded arms with coded corners of fulcrum box, i.e. corner "A" with arm "A" etc.
2. With the level locate the highest of the four mounting surfaces for the main support. From the assortment of seven thicknesses of square polyethylene shims provided for leveling of uneven deck conditions, select a shim of 1/8" for the high point. Select other shims for the other mounting surfaces that will give an approximate level.
3. Place the main support into position, footwheel on right (facing pool). The fulcrum support must be set level on all four feet -- NO ROCKING. If it rocks with no bolts tightened down, it will distort the top surface of the stand and the fulcrum slide assembly will not function. All stainless steel bolts should be installed with 5/8" stainless steel washers and have enough length for at least 1/2" of thread engagement, but not more than 3/4".
4. Leveling: By this we mean -- that a precision level be placed across the tracks of the main support at both ends of the tracks. The main support must be exactly level crosswise only and nearly level in the direction of the length of the board. Adjust shims as required to achieve this condition, but maintain the minimum 1/8" shim to isolate the structure from the deck surface. NOTE: The level should be determined with the hold-down bolts reasonably tight and rechecked after the bolts have been tightened with maximum pull on an 18" long socket handle or box wrench. (Three Meter only: Use round shims between box and main support for final leveling if required. Thoroughly tighten the aluminum bolts holding box to main frame at this point.)
5. The ladder site should be rough-set as per step (2) and the ladder positioned over the holes. Deck bolts shall be installed with a 3/4" stainless steel washer next to the slot in the ladder and a 5/8" stainless steel washer under the hex cap screw. Tighten only finger tight.
6. Install the board on the fulcrum (centered on the roller) and install the two board anchor bolts to the hinges -- snug, but not tight. Carefully check end of board for being parallel to centerline of hinges and shift ladder accordingly. Apply level at anchor end of board just forward of the bolts, and check for level. Shim the feet at the deck accordingly. It may be necessary to "twist" or torque the ladder assembly to square the centerline of hinges to end of board. This can be accomplished by shims at the deck contact point and is done simultaneously with the leveling, if desired. Then tighten deck bolts. All deck bolts and board bolts are to be tightened very thoroughly (110 ft. - lbs. of torque or maximum pull on 18" handle of socket wrench).
7. Bounce the board several times to make sure it does not drift off center of the roller. If it does, loosen hinge to board bolts and adjust before final tightening. If this persists the reason is that the top of the ladder and the centerline of the hinges is not 90 degreesor square with the centerline of board.
8. The preferred pitch of the board for competition should be (no load) zero or level. The tip of the board should never be "down" or lower than level. If other than a level condition is desired, a maximum of 1" rise at the tip or 1/16" rise per foot of board is recommended. To adjust, remove the six bolts in the anchor fitting and the entire casting with hinges and board attach bolts intact, may be moved up or down in incrementsof 1" to attain proper level. Replace the six bolts and tighten thoroughly.
9. Install the handrails per the supplement sheet.
10. The touch-up polyurethane paint is for coating all aluminum bolts, bolt-threads and nuts after they are installed. Note: failure to coat the aluminum bolts will result in corrosion and bolt failure; to ignore this step is increase the potential for accidental injury. Handrail clamp bolts should also be coated.

DURAFIRM DIVING BOARD STANDS 
HANDRAIL INSTRUCTIONS

Install handrail support arms on the fulcrum unit, matching coded arms with coded corners of the fulcrum box. (Match corner "A" with arm "A", etc.) Tighten each nut while holding the bolt head with a wrench. This will prevent the bolt head from spinning and scratching the paint.

Lay out 11 rail clamps for each rail. Place a curved rail on each side of the stand. The rails are marked with "L" or "R" for right and left. The straight rails are interchangeable and may be placed on top of the diving board with the pre-attached bracket towards the ladder.

Before attaching any rail clamps, please read section of this document titled "HOW TO BOLT RAIL CLAMPS."

Slide 4 rail clamps over the straight end of the curved rail. Use care when sliding rail clamps onto the rail to avoid scratching. Have at least two people hold the rail in approximate position, with the curved end of the rail positioned on the outside of the ladder. Using the bolts provided with your rails, loosely attach the rail to the upper support arm sockets. Position the curved end of the rail so that the centerline of the rail is lined up with the two mounting holes on the rail socket of the ladder. Tighten the bolts enough to hold the rail against the support arm, but loose enough to allow rotation of the rail. Rotate the rail so it is against the ladder.

With the rail in position, insert a Sharpie or other marker through the bottom hole of the ladder rail socket and make a mark on the rail. Rotate the rail away from the ladder and mark a line 3/4" below the previous mark. Using a tubing cutter, cut the excess rail off at this line while someone helps support the rail. File off any burrs from the end and inside of the rail.

Loosen the rail clamps enough to allow the rail to slide. Slide the rail back about 3 or 4 inches. Rotate the rail so the end is "inside" the ladder. Slide the rail forward and approximately into position with the rail end in the socket.

Slide 1 rail clamp over the end of the rail and past the curves. This clamp will be used to attach the straight rail to the curved rail.

Slide 2 rail clamps over the end of the rail and secure the rail to the ladder rail socket. It may be necessary to loosen the other rail clamps to complete this step. Tighten all rail clamps starting from the ladder and working forward.

Slide 4 rail clamps over the straight rail. Loosely attach the rail clamps to the lower rail support sockets. Slide the straight rail into position so that it is nearly touching the curved rail. Tighten the bolts enough to hold the rail against the support arm, but loose enough to allow rotation of the rail.

The straight rail has a slight bend approximately 44" from the rear. Rotate the rail until the end lines up with the curved rail and the straight rail is bent slightly down. Slide the extra rail clamp down the curved rail so it is below the straight rail and tighten the rail support clamp bolts. Finally, slide the last rail clamp into position and attach the two rails to each other with the bronze rail bracket.

Repeat this process for the other side. Check all bolts for tightness. Remove any masking tape.

HOW TO BOLT RAIL CLAMPS

The rail clamps require a bolt that is short enough to not bottom out on the handrail tubing before it is completely tight.If the bolt bottoms out on the rail tubing then the bolt will work itself loose and fall out.

Different length bolts are provided for areas of the castings that vary in thickness. In general, the 5/16" x 3/4" bolts are good for getting the clamp to conform to the socket whereas the 5/16" x 5/8" bolts are the correct length for final tightening. Exceptions are: the top 8 clamps for handrail supports (correct length is 5/16" x 3/4"). The 5/16" x 1/2" are the correct length where casting parts are thin.

It can be difficult to get the correct length bolt started, because the round rail clamp must first be pulled into the socket by a longer bolt. This helps the clamp conform to the shape of the socket.Once the rail clamp has been pulled into shape with the long bolt, it can be replaced with the shorter (correct size) bolt and tightened without bottoming out on the handrail tubing.

Tip: Use a taper punch to line up the holes of the clamp and the rail support.