Cracks are sometimes initiated by a gouge or notch on one of the reinforcing ribs underneath the board, where the board has hit something metal or concrete. Common causes are: the board tracks to one side and hits a front rail support, or the rubber channels underneath the board are worn badly so that they no longer protect the reinforcing ribs. (See FAQ answer to "board life").

Such conditions should be obvious to anyone who is listening, because the board banging the metal fulcrum or metal rail support is very loud. What we hear from customers is that the loud banging was ignored so long that everyone hearing it was accustomed to the noise. The owners forgot that the board originally made a soft "thud, thud" noise; they "didn't know" that the "clang-clang" noise meant that something was wrong.

If a crack is observed and stopped when the crack is short (1/2" to 5/8"), and the condition causing the crack is corrected, then the board is less likely to have a shortened life. This assumes that the crack occurs in the fulcrum area where the rib height is approximately 2"; if the crack occurs in the tapered areas of the ribs, there is less chance of arresting the crack's progress. To prevent a crack from progressing (in the fulcrum area) drill a hole at the apex of the crack. Use a 1/4" drill bit, and put the point of the drill bit at the apex of the crack. When you drill the hole, you are drilling ahead of the visible apex by about 1/8" which should take out the leading (invisible) point where the crack is progressing. Coat the bare aluminum around the hole with epoxy or polyurethane paint.

If there are many small cracks in the ribs underneath, the likely cause is excessive torque. See the FAQ answer to "board life" about unlevel diving board stand condition.

Another possible cause is corrosion. See Care and Maintenance page on this website.